The London school: from rugby to black tie

The London school: from rugby to black tie

Nobody thinks of socks as an item of primary importance. But in vain: the history of men's style was largely written from the bottom up - from shoes and what is in them. And no country has done more for the sock than England.

The sporting beginning: the era of rugby

Victorian gentlemen took sport seriously and therefore made their kit according to all the rules. The first knitted knee-length socks appeared on the rugby field - as protection and as a sign of belonging to a club.

Between the wars: the birth of masculine restraint

By the 1920s, tanned skin and open ankles were considered vulgar. A man in a suit had to be covered to his fingertips. So knee socks became a mandatory part of the wardrobe, and their colour and pattern became a marker of taste.

The gentleman's rule: colour to colour

Grey flannel requires grey socks, a blue-striped suit requires dark blue. The rule is simple: the sock should be darker than the trousers but lighter than the shoes. Breaking it means instantly exposing yourself as a beginner.

Oxfords, derbies and the turn-up

One pre-war magazine wrote: 'A gentleman reveals his ankle as rarely as his wife.' Today the turn-up is a gesture of style, but the same principle applies: the exposed part of the sock must be flawless.

What remains of the school today

Less: the dress code has relaxed, jeans replaced flannel. More: attention to detail has not gone away. A good sock in 2026 is still a sign that a man cares about how he looks.